by Euphorium Brooklyn
EAU DE PARFUM
Family: Oriental gourmand
Perfumer: Stephen Dirkes
Notes: Sandalwood, Swedish wildflower, petitgrain, raspberry, raisin, labdanum, clary sage, oakmoss, cardamon, elemi, myrrh, patchouli, nutmeg, star anise, cassia, benzoin, peru balsam, coumarin, vanilla cream, suede, castoreum, ambergris, birch tar, cade, tonka musk
A fragrance so decadent, it’s almost obscene. First enjoy a potent note of supple suede that renders you nearly senseless before being engulfed by fresh vanilla cream that is subtly spiced with nutmeg and star anise. Soothing resins smooth the fragrance, and fresh berries make it playful. A thrilling, über sexy gourmand.
The first fragrance to blossom from the creative collaboration of Euphorium Brooklyn’s founders; Etienne Chevreuil, Rudolph Komodo and Christian Rosenkreuz, SUÉDOIS was a special labour of love.
Early in the three gentlemen’s acquaintance, it became known that they had all fallen deeply in love with the same woman at some point in their past. When they heard that this woman, once the object of their desire, would be brought to New York for her first operatic tour of America, the perfumers of the Euphorium set about to craft a poem in her honor with scent. SUÉDOIS is the romance they wrought.
Meaning both “Swedish” or “Suede” in French, SUÉDOIS is a fragrance that plays on both meanings of the word. A rich, soft and supple note from the finest sandalwood known to grow on this Earth from eastern Indonesia, establishes the warmth and radiance of a Swedish summer in SUÉDOIS.
The fragrance opens with the bright, light floral notes of a wildflower bouquet. Petals fall to reveal a soft smokey cloak of suede, soft yet dark with birch tar and rich with hints of citrus, cardamom, nutmeg and anise. In time, the cloak of spiced suede too drops to expose soft Swedish skin, bathed in sweet cream and balsam.
One of Rudolph Komodo’s contributions, the “Cendana” accord is in memory of a sandalwood fan he presented to the famous “Swedish Nightingale” as an awe-struck devotee, after a performance he witnessed in London. “As you have filled my heart with a beauty that will linger like a melody forever more, I offer you the sweet, sweet magic of my humble Cendana (sandalwood) to adorn your beauty in the ethereal splendor of its perfume.” – R. Komodo.
The perfumer was often quoted for saying, “Cendana is the gods’ gift to a small island called Sumba. This magical and fragrant wood has spread in the ether throughout the Globe as an affection or a great love that grows more beautiful with each new experience and encounter. The sweet scent of Cendana has wafted from our small island to reach Emperors’ courts throughout Asia, the great Moghuls of Mysore, Lords of Europe and even the arid expanse of Oceana. To you my brothers and sisters of the Euphorium, I offer the only real, true and pure Cendana, that which comes from the wellspring of all Cendana, my own Nusa Tenggara!” The ironic implications of Komodo’s metaphor, “Cendana (sandalwood)… has spread much like a great love that grows more beautiful with each new experience and encounter.” were not lost on cynical perfumers who noted that sandalwood was first introduced to Europe not as a fragrant material for perfumery, but as a cure for certain venereal diseases.
The term “Suede” originates from the French, gants de Suéde (Swedish gloves) and refers to the earliest introduction of this sensuous material to Europe via the Swedish Sami people and their traditional deerskin. The noble profession of Perfumery has had a long association to glove-makers and the leather trade in Europe. SUÉDOIS references two interesting developments in the history of scenting leathers and their impact on perfumery.
Etienne Chevreuil’s “Fleurs Suédoises” adds more than a fresh bouquet of meadow flowers as it also presents a delicate citrus note in honor of 17th century, Madame des Ursins (Princess of Nerola, namesake of the bitter orange “Neroli”) and her introduction of citrus notes in scenting her gloves. Rudolph Komodo’s richly spiced cardamom, nutmeg and anise “Peau Suédoise” accord is an exploration of “Peau d’Espagne” (Spanish Skin).
The fragrance of scented leather had become established as a perfume accord by the mid 19th century. Psychologist, Havelock Ellis writes at the end of the century in “Studies on the Psychology of Sex” that Peau d’Espagne perfumes were “Often the favorite of sensuous persons” and “Peau d’Espagne is of all perfumes that which most nearly approaches the odor of a woman’s skin”.
In memory of the milky complexion of the Swedish singer he became smitten with and the berries and cream they sensually consumed on a moonlit picnic in Stockholm, Christian Rosenkreuz’s “Bayerische Creme” (Bavarian Cream) accord is the final note to linger tenderly on the skin in the love poem that is SUÉDOIS. Rosenkreuz was reported to awake shrouded in the fragrance of berries and sweet vanilla cream after experiencing the phenomena known as “The Sleep of Sialam (Shialom)”