by Euphorium Brooklyn
EAU DE PARFUM
Family: Oriental woody
Perfumer: Stephen Dirkes
Notes: Benzoin, labdanum, frankincense, elemi, leather, beeswax, angelica, cistus, clove, honey, papyrus, liqueur, ambergris, oud, cedar, coumarin, birch tar, castoreum
Loaded with woods and resins, Cilice is the scent of ancient cathedrals, with wooden benches and traces of smoke lingering in the air from hundreds of years of incense burning during ritualistic worship. The beautiful and natural scent of wood may also transport one's mind to a densely wooded forest with the scent of newly fallen trees hanging in the breeze. Lovers of perfumes like Avignon who are looking for something darker, heavier and bolder might want to give Cilice a shot. It’s the house’s first release as well as its best-seller.
About the Perfumer, Etienne Chevreuil, 1860’s co-founder of Euphorium Brooklyn and self proclaimed “Transcendental Sensualist”, Mr. Etienne Chevreuil evolved theories of achieving euphoric states through the use of acoustically harmonized perfume and ritualistic ceremony. The original Euphorium Brooklyn perfumes were intended as elements of larger elaborate, transcendental rituals referred to as “Knowing – Becoming”. Fragrances were linked to specific animistic spirit guides or totems and inducing specific euphoric states. The Stag represented Mr. Chevreuil’s personal animal guide and is featured on Chevreuil family heraldry.
Born outside Grasse, France, Etienne was the youngest child of Jean Claude Chevreuil (also know as the Lavender Baron of Grasse) and famed mentalist, Hildegard Gottscalk (Sister of famed Theosophist, Madame Gottscalk- Chau.)
After a largely misspent youth as bon vivant and trifler, Etienne eventually travelled widely, spoke six languages, was a pioneering choreographer, olfactory tableau artist and published on a variety of natural, exotic and occult sciences.
The outcome of extensive experimentation in “Transcendental Sensualism”, Chevreuil’s published work includes: Deer Antler Development (1851), Tableaux Euphoric ( 1853 ), The Ecstasy of Devotion (1856), Komodo Process Part 3 – Acoustic Harmonization (1857), Self-Mortification and Transcendence (1860), The Sensate Spiritualist (1862), Teresa and the Wounded Tree (1863) and 573 Known States Euphoric (1867).
PERFUMER’S INSPIRATION (Expanded)
A 19th century installation artist of sorts, Mr. Chevreuil created an immersive art form he called, “Tableaux Olfactif ” in which he would perfume an empty salon to recreate a specific environment and scene that would unfold over time and be told by scent and scent alone.
With CILICE, Etienne sought to capture and convey the sensuality of the environment and intensity of emotion when a young nun is encountered in her cloistered cell. An intimate and ecstatic moment is observed as she becomes transcendent.
Etienne Chevreuil writes, “Velvet curtains, crisp linen, dusty gilt, crumbling plaster and parchment are exalted to a subtle perfume by warm shafts of sunlight. As fragrant tears are drawn from the wounds of ancient Agarwood, Benzoin and Olibanum trees, the Cilice releases a purer self that transcends her suffering.
Bound tight by soft leather, a note of rusted metal sinks into deeper notes of warm skin and animal musk to discipline the flesh and release the soul. Her sweet release, an ecstatic moment of extreme emotion and sensation is captured in the deepest memory of scent. A child of the little flower, I now know her Ecstasy of Devotion.”
The Ecstasy of Devotion (1856)